Source: Becky Wasserman
BODET-HEROLD
Loire, France
My passion for wine was always integral to my identity, my grandparents teaching me how to appreciate good food and wine. The harvests of my youth are my Madeleines de Prouste, my most cherished memories. My father, ever the eager worker, initiated me to the numerous tasks of a winemaker – from bottling to de-budding, collecting vine cuttings to harvesting. We live as a family at the domaine, the rhythm of our lives set by that of the vines. The Bodet family has possessed vines on the right-bank terroir of Montreuil-Bellay since the end of the 19th century. It’s this historic yet little seen terroir that I seek to express and celebrate. I have set off on a journey into my own roots. I am the 5th generation winemaker in a line of fathers and sons in the Bodet family. My vision of wine as philosophic, artisanal, and romantic has been the source of conflict between the generations. Our divergent ideas have pushed me to fly with my own wings. This divergence is founded in what I have learned through my experiences. My experiences sparked a fire in me, a desire to create and to put my ideas and instincts to work. In 2019 I created Domaine Etienne Bodet on a parcel gifted to me as a wedding present – 1.4 hectares of Cabernet Franc. I had been diligently managing this parcel, known as “Clos Durandière”, since the beginning of my journey in 2015. I have since acquired another parcel, “L’aïeul”, providing another expression of Cabernet Franc.
We set forth on a project to create sparkling wines from a terroir well attuned to their production. The geology and geo-scientific base of chalk, locally known as “Tuffeau”, creates tension, elegance and precision due to its capacity to preserve low pH levels in the must Tuffeau also creates the ideal environment for the wines aging, with stable temperature and humidity (∓ 80% humidity and ∓ 12°C) in its in spacious underground cellars. Saumur’s 200- year-old sparkling wine tradition is the result of these factors. During the 2nd World War, Saumur became home to 20 producers of méthode-champenoise sparkling wines. The Saumur Champigny region was known as “La Cote des Blancs” until the 1960s. The Chenin grape is the final element to take into account. It can be rustic and overly green when overproduced and with poorly handled phenolic maturity. When the viticulture and vinification are in harmony, however, the grape gains in precision. The time spent aging on lattes bring intense notes of bitter orange, interwoven with elements of autolysis. Chenin is thus an exceptional variety for sparkling wine! Grolleau completes the blend, with its lows ratio of skins to pulp, allowing for a low concentration of stringent and bitter components while preserving great acidity. The palette of Loire Valley wines available is a source of both strength and weakness. With regards to sparkling wine, too often are they produced as if they were still white wines or as a bulk product. The production of sparkling wine requires extreme rigor in order to achieve elegance in the bottle (the maintenance of an optimal acid/sugar balance, separation and handling of the end-of-press wine, diligent attention to the lees, etc.). We strive to achieve this rigor in our work.
The result of Maison Baudet-Herold’s efforts: “Physis”, vintage 2017, Crémant de Loire, 90% Chenin, 10% Grolleau.
“Physis” signifies that which grows due to its interior force and the attraction of light. We conceived our project as a duo. Kim Bodet-Herold, is a particularly sensitive and acute taster of sparkling wines. Etienne Bodet contributes his profound experience in Champagne, having completed his oenological studies in Reims and worked for several domaines in the region before returning to help shape his wife’s vision.
“The quality is Champagne-like, but the personality (and the pricing!) is all Loire.” – FLATIRON NY